What Seoul Locals Actually Wear (And Why Tourists Stand Out)
The coffee dripped onto my white COS shirt at around ten, just as I hit the steepest cobblestone pitch in Bukchon Hanok Village. I'd been gripping a paper cup from a corner place with mismatched chairs, trying to navigate alleyways where the ginkgo leaves had turned that specific, almost aggressive gold that only happens when the temperature hovers between fifteen and eighteen degrees.
The stain spread immediately—cotton poplin doesn't forgive liquid—while I stood there sweating slightly,…